Having breakfasted like kings on our 3.90€ Formule Une
special (as much muesli, orange juice, coffee, apple puree, unlimited French
bread, marmalade and Nutella as you can consume - what more do you need?) we hit the route
south. A gorgeous late summer warmth greeted us. The first few km's were
Quite took us
over and around the Eurotunnel freight terminal, but it was soon on to
the open roads of the Pas de Calais. The hours Stuart spent
route planning paid dividends today - for the most part we were on
lovely, smooth, quiet back roads.
At one point only about 10 km south of Coquelles the road was closed for a stretch for resurfacing, but in the absence of any actual road improvement activity we rode down it anyway, giving us chance to pedal along side-by-side. Great team building!
At one point only about 10 km south of Coquelles the road was closed for a stretch for resurfacing, but in the absence of any actual road improvement activity we rode down it anyway, giving us chance to pedal along side-by-side. Great team building!
A late morning coffee at Desvres was notable only for the
fact that it was served to us by a scraggy 60 year old man wearing Kevin
Keegan-style 1970s football shorts and a stained white vest that looked
as though it had been on his back since the 1970s. Nice. The coffee was
disappointing too by continental standards.
We continued.
We continued.
Now, the back roads made for great cycling, but they also
bypassed anywhere that could sell us anything by way of lunch, or indeed
water. By now the temperature had risen steadily, and it peaked at 33c
mid-afternoon. Dylan and I managed to find a campsite with a bar who had 2 litre bottles of chilled water available. A life saver! We were riding through an area known
as "The Seven Valleys" (translated of course), and those valleys were
traversed individually. They were challenging enough for Dylan and I as we rode this section pretty much as a pair, but with
the heat and full panniers they were sapping. Stuart was way out in front, Andy following along steadily some way behind. Lovely contryside and villages though. And so few cars!
In Hesdin we
re-grouped, refreshed and redoubled our resolve. The time in the shade
was welcome. The sector from Hesdin to Abbeville was on a slightly
busier road, and it was head down and just get on it with riding for the
final couple of hours, but the effort was worth it. Approaching
Abbeville from the north you're afforded the most wonderful and dramatic
view of its cathedral's twin steeples. Our F1 hotel for that night was
on the far side of town, so we also had a cooling descent as we rode
through the town. For me the descent into town and the speed that Dylan and I made as we swept through roundabouts and cruised up the climb to the hotel were some of the best bits of riding on the trip for me. Its strange how you can get an energy boost just by being close to your resting point.
Our evening meal was probably the most satisfactory of the
trip. We were too far from the centre to walk in (and not all the party
could face hopping back on their bikes), so we missed out on the
characterful backstreet bistro we'd envisaged, but we did get the choice
of plenty of chain restaurants. Stuart wanted to try the Buffalo Grill,
but in due deference to the vegetarian in the party (me, thanks boys) we ended up
somewhere more able to accommodate my needs. The others still had a choice of steaks etc, so I don't think they compromised too much. Whilst
we were stuffing ourselves at the back of the restaurant we began to
wonder what the flashing lights were outside. Great crashes of thunder
alerted us to the possibility that it might be a touch damp. And so it
proved. We lingered hopefully with coffee, dragged our feet asking for
the bill, went to the loo several times, all waiting for the rain to
abate, but it never did, leading to Abbeville being treated to the sight
of four Brits running dementedly across a retail park back to their
hotel, Stuart stripped to the waist for a bit in the vain hope
that I could keep my t-shirt dry that way. Epic fail. A good night
though. And a good day. It alone made the effort and planning
worthwhile.
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